Thursday, 24 November 2011

High Noon Tour - Day 11

Day 11 – November 20th

We spend the day by the pool at James’ apartment with thunderstorms overhead. Around 9pm we get our gear together and take a cab to the airport, ready to fly to Sydney. Its just a 7 hour flight which seems like nothing after the number of long haul trips we have done and like old pros we settle onto the night flight and fall asleep.
Well, that was the idea. The reality is only James sleeps (again) and the rest of us feel like death with only the odd disgusting meal to keep us from sliding into a netherworld like state of mind.
I watch a movie called Submarine about a teenager in Wales having girlfriend and parent problems. It sounds dull, but its great….i won’t say much more, but I highly recommend it.
‘Horrible Bosses’ on the other hand was a bad choice, but bad enough that I fell asleep! YES! At fucking last.
The pilot dumps us down with nonchalant disregard for our comfort at Sydney airport. Lucky as earlier in the flight he announced our imminent arrival at Melbourne. Nice to know they are on the ball.
We wait around for Bicci, our Aussie tour manager who takes us to the hotel and for a quick bite to eat. Our conversation is limited to grunts and head shakes as we crave bed and head off for an early night.

Lamont feeling the burn.

High Noon Tour - Day 10

Day 10 – November 19th

I’m writing this a few days after it happened so events are a little sketchy. We have no show to play and after I go out to get some food I come back to find all the guys and our host rotting on the sofa where everyone stays all day.
We go out again at around 10pm to a party someone we met from the night before invited us to. We have no idea what to expect, but the situation is so bizarre we could never have predicted it.
We turn up in the taxi to a massive house….billionaire style place you only ever see on TV. Out on the deck in front of the house are 100 people, 99% male and 99% dressed as angles or centurions. The friend  who invited us neglected to mention the exact theme, so into one of Freddie Mercury’s wet dreams walk 3 greasy, hungover rockers. Si is too haggard to come to the party so its just me, Lamont and James. We grab a drunk and mingle with the assorted fashion designers, bondage dressed businessmen and angels. After way too many vodkas and witnessing some kind of human centipede like performance by a few transvestites in the houses purpose built disco I decide to go for a swim. I haven’t swum in years and there’s a massive pool outside, so I dive into the deep end only to discover there is no deep end. The whole thing is like a kiddies pool and I’m lucky to not knock myself out. The pool looked deserted from the end I was at, but when I come up for air I’m right next to two naked men having a rather lovely time.
I dry off, drink up and decide things are taking a turn in a direction I might not be 100% used to so round up the guys and head off.

Sadly there are no pictures from this night.

High Noon Tour - Day 9

Day 9 – 18th November

I punched Lamont.
James’s apartment has two rooms, me and Jon in one, Si and James in the other. It’s a matter of being confortable with our sexuality and having to share beds. All is well, but in the night Jon said I sat up startled which woke him up. Seeing him there I looked confused and punched him in the eye. Sorry Jon, I didn’t mean it.

Dragging ourselves out the front door was hard this morning. My voice feels like shit, I can barely speak and we’re off to do an interview and play an acoustic session on the radio. The building we turn up to is some kind of military facility. It just happens to be where the main radio station here is situated too. We get searched, scanned and have to hand in our phones, cameras and ‘suspicious equipment’ to the armed guards. Surreal.

The acoustic session is ok, but me and Si both sound like 90 year olds so we’re not too pleased with our performance, but there’s no point complaining as we can’t re-schedule the interview.

The interviewer Harry is a total pro and it goes smoothly. We grab our stuff off the military guys and ride home in a cab driven by a Wishbone Ash obsessive. A couple of hours rest then later we’re heading to The Beer Market for soundcheck and the show. I’m just praying my voice miraculously recovers in a couple of hours.

Somehow it did. Singapore is humid and hot but they love the air conditioning here. So much so we are fucking freezing at the venue. We play around 10pm so have a few hours to kill and get given some bottles of our sponsor’s gin. Bulldog Gin for those interested.  Dangerous stuff.

We end up playing two sets, one of the quitter more shoegaze stuff, Kiss Away The Sun, Spoke too Soon etc and then a full on rock set at the end. It gets pretty nuts and the night went on and on with Lamont getting onstage to jam Crazy Little Thing called Love with the house band. Si drunkenly climbed onstage and added some wonderfully out of tune backing vocals.

The Beer Market - Singapore.
James and fan
Lamont playing Queen.
Si singing Queen
Lamont winning

High Noon Tour - Day 9

Day 9 – 18th November

I punched Lamont.
James’s apartment has two rooms, me and Jon in one, Si and James in the other. It’s a matter of being confortable with our sexuality and having to share beds. All is well, but in the night Jon said I sat up startled which woke him up. Seeing him there I looked confused and punched him in the eye. Sorry Jon, I didn’t mean it.

Dragging ourselves out the front door was hard this morning. My voice feels like shit, I can barely speak and we’re off to do an interview and play an acoustic session on the radio. The building we turn up to is some kind of military facility. It just happens to be where the main radio station here is situated too. We get searched, scanned and have to hand in our phones, cameras and ‘suspicious equipment’ to the armed guards. Surreal.

The acoustic session is ok, but me and Si both sound like 90 year olds so we’re not too pleased with our performance, but there’s no point complaining as we can’t re-schedule the interview.

The interviewer Harry is a total pro and it goes smoothly. We grab our stuff off the military guys and ride home in a cab driven by a Wishbone Ash obsessive. A couple of hours rest then later we’re heading to The Beer Market for soundcheck and the show. I’m just praying my voice miraculously recovers in a couple of hours.

Somehow it did. Singapore is humid and hot but they love the air conditioning here. So much so we are fucking freezing at the venue. We play around 10pm so have a few hours to kill and get given some bottles of our sponsor’s gin. Bulldog Gin for those interested.  Dangerous stuff.

We end up playing two sets, one of the quitter more shoegaze stuff, Kiss Away The Sun, Spoke too Soon etc and then a full on rock set at the end. It gets pretty nuts and the night went on and on with Lamont getting onstage to jam Crazy Little Thing called Love with the house band. Si drunkenly climbed onstage and added some wonderfully out of tune backing vocals.

The Beer Market - Singapore.
James and fan
Lamont playing Queen.
Si singing Queen
Lamont winning

High Noon Tour - Day 8

Day 8 – 17th November

Woken up one hour early by a Simon with an incorrectly set clock I feel a little sad and still tired as we sit in silence in the taxi on the way to the airport. The calm mood carries on through the whole journey and its not until we get to Singapore we finally really pick up. At the airport is James…our host for a couple of nights. He is a friend of a friend as is letting us stay with him for the time we are in Singapore. He’s a Brit, but grew up here so its good to get some local knowledge and it leads us straight to some local food. Kind of savoury pancakes with a curry dip. Damn good.

As soon as we’ve eaten we have to quickly shower, change guitar strings and get ready to head to Live-o TV. Its an internet TV channel and you’d not believe it unless you saw it.  Singapore is a modern, clean city, but the taxi drops us off in an area that looks like something from a 70’s cop show. An industrial estate with surly looking guys staring at us from the gloom as we walk with our gear wondering if this can possibly be the right place. The service life is big enough for fork lift trucks and the whole place stinks, but we see one bright coloured door at the end of the dank corridor and through it a modern TV studio and office with pool table, antique furniture and weird metal sculptures. It reminded me of Zoolander’s apartment if you’ve ever seen that movie.

We play 5 songs live on ‘air’
Romeo
We’re All Gonna Die
Jesus
Amsterdam
Shoot Me Down,

Then do a quick live interview with a guy called Bi whose tag line is “Hi I am Bi, but I am straight”. 
The other guys head home, but I go with James to pick up an acoustic guitar from a friend of his as we have an acoustic session on the radio tomorrow morning. The drive through the city at night is incredible and I’m glad of the time to actually see the city however briefly. James tells me more about life here and I think it seems like a place I’d definitely like to visit sometime again. Its not the ‘grey city of Asia’ as I had been told it would be. They even drive on the left here, so maybe its just the familiarity i'm enjoying.

Si is sick and I’m not feeling so good, just too hot, too much air conditioning and too many flights are taking their toll. We all head to bed with an alarm set for some ridiculously early time in the morning again.

Leaving Saigon.
Ho Chi Minh's welcome sign. Obviously.
Gear trolley 1.
Lamont.

High Noon Tour - Day 7

Day 7 – 16th Nov

One week in and we’re now leaving Vietnam. This is our last day here and it starts with an interview with John from The Word magazine. An English language magazine for people in Vietnam and the sponsors of the 2nd show we played here. The interview is a good one, held over iced Vietnamese coffees and joined by an old friend from London who we bumped into on the way to the café.

More office work finalising everything for getting to Singapore and for when we get there, uploading pics and vids which I hope you guys are checking out and sharing!

Before we know it we’re in Acoustic Bar, the venue for tonight’s show doing a quick sound check, grabbing some food (yes, back in Margarita’s with the same old menu choices) and finally relaxing with a beer waiting to go on stage. We have an hour to talk to people and reflect on how things have been going so far. The general consensus is that its damn good, but maybe we should try to sleep more and that we’re going to miss Saigon, especially the little gang we seem to have formed whilst here.

The show is a weird one with a lot of the audience expecting a covers band as covers bands are pretty much all that is out here usually. We disappoint a good half of the crowd by not playing some old favourites, but everyone else there gets what we’re doing and with a broken string at the end of Romeo its all over. We take photos with everyone we know there, head for a last Saigon beer and slop off to bed. Goodnight Saigon, you have been wonderful.



Hanging out in the street outside Acoustic Bar - Saigon.
The sign outside Acoustic Bar.

Monday, 21 November 2011

High Noon Tour - Day 6

Day 6 – 15th November

The sound of an alarm ringing must be one of the worst things I can possibly imagine. The association of my specific phone’s sound with painful mornings means that if I am out and hear the same tone used as someone’s ring tone I actually got a cold shudder run through me as my body has learnt like Pavlov’s dog that that sound means pain.

I meet my friend 'T' for Vietnamese coffee. Cold, iced, strong coffee basically and feel a lot better right away. Its great to see someone who we met in January when we were totally new to this strange and overwhelming place. To see her again feeling more relaxed and having stayed in touch for the best part of a year it’s a great morning cut short by a call from the other guys saying there’s some work to be done. You see we have no manager with us and so everything from accounts to visas to uploading stuff like this diary has to be done by us. With so many countries, people, time zones and interviews and shows to do it’s a hard job to keep on top of it all, especially with the internet connection in Vietnam. It seems the chance to do some TV and radio has appeared in Singapore so we spend a few hours getting it all in order for when we go there in 2 days. I also take a couple of hours to write up what you are reading now. I intend to get this diary done daily, but so far that just hasn’t worked out.

We then get a taxi to Xone FM….Vietnam’s biggest rock radio station. The driver gets lost on the way as it is really not like London. You know how in London the drivers have to have The Knowledge? Well here it seems to just be a matter of drive round a bit, then stop to ask some people for some vague directions, drive a little more, stop and ask, repeat. Always repeat.

Eventually we get to Xone FM and settle into the studio to play a couple of acoustic tracks. We decide on We’re All Gonna Die, Ordinary Love, Son You Look Like You Need Jesus and Romeo. Oh Romeo. We have played that song so many times, but boy did we screw it up. Again and again! It’s the one we have played the most and is by far the most straightforward to get right, but because of that its easy to over think it and like a footballer missing the easy shot Si fluffs the mid section. Then we start again and I forget the words. So we try again and are concentrating so hard we just start laughing. Luckily the show wasn’t live and on the 4th or 5th take we actually stop messing around and play a decent rendition. The interview itself last ages, but I bet once edited down with probably just make a 3 minute segment in the show, but itd be cool for more to be out there as it was probably our most open, honest and funny interview we have done.

After the radio show we head to 17 Saloon. This was a favourite hang out last time we were here and we set it as a meeting point for everyone who is in town and free to come out. A few beers later we have a decent little posse together and decide to go play pool somewhere. We set everyone up in teams and have a competition accompanied by a few beers. Everyone wants Lamont on their team, the guy is the best of us and he ends up with our Aussie/Vietnamese friend Tanya. Two shots into the game Lamont pots the black, losing the game and losing his briefly won reputation as something of a pool god.  We want to play longer, but the bar gets a bit sex touristy later and the fat Brits are coming in wanting to get on the table so they can feel less awkward whilst bargaining the prices they are willing to pay.

We decide to go to a place called Vasco’s, another place we played last time we were here, but when we get there its closed. We’re in a weird end of town and the only places nearby are either classy and expensive or dingy and expensive. So we go dingy….right to tourist central, a place called Apocalypse Now. I think I talked about this place in my last blog so there’s no need to go into it again…but lets just say its not my kind of place.

The real pleasure though is getting to hang out with our friends here. All of them made through the band, playing gigs, through Facebook or just hanging out after the shows. I truly see our band as a club, as some kind of social sanctuary for people who feel like we do about the world, people who for whatever reason we click with. I could go on about it, but if you ever come to one of our gigs just stick around, say hi and get chatting to us. We’re on this adventure to find people like us, to not be ‘lost’ anymore and by the same action offer other people the chance to maybe find some kind of group to find a home with. I’m terrible at describing what I mean, but those who get it will get it. If that makes sense?

Lamont at Xone FM - Vietnam
The LSC playing at Xone FM.
Lamont losing at pool.

High Noon Tour - Day 5

Day 5 – 14th November

Hungover with bags to pack, a plane to catch and 3 other guys to kick into action I already don’t like today, but somehow it all comes together and we actually make our plane. Lamont discovers he's left his drum stick bag with all the sticks for the whole tour in a taxi last night so the slightly narky mood between us deepens, but by the time we’re on the plane we’re all out for the count anyway.

We land in Saigon and meet Mark, our tour manager here in a café. He tells us he is moving us to a different hotel due to me having stuff nicked from the previous one a couple of days ago.  It seems a good plan and other than the slowest lift in the world the new hotel is pretty damn swish. I have working air conditioning, 2 beds (in case I get bored of sleeping in one I can try out the other I suppose) and a view. I’m usually the one who chooses the wrong room, the wrong queue to stand in, gets the bad seat on the plane etc…so this was a real score for Mr Tufnell.

We called our friend I shall call Missy S to see if she wanted to join us for dinner as she’d helped us out promoting the Hard Rock Café shows. As usual the guys voted to go to Margarita’s, our home from home, kitchen o'plenty. We all ordered the same as we always do, Si something meaty, spicy and befitting a man of such beardiness, James something Italian, usually pizza or pasta and Jon and I Vietnamese and as the hangover ebbed away we began to feel more human. In fact James' love of Bolognese has us wondering if he should write some kind of seperate tour diary "Bolognese around the world" chronicling the differences between the different culture's take on the Italian classic.

The other guys decided to go to bed, but Missy S asked if I wanted to meet a friend of hers and have a beer somewhere more casual and traditionally Vietnamese. So I got onto the back of her scooter and we hammered through the Saigon streets with me perched like a giant praying mantis behind this tiny girl as she chats animatedly to her friend weaving in and out of the traffic next to us. I get a few strange looks and after a few wrong turns we settle down to my second dinner of the evening. Just like Hanoi it’s the tiny tables, tiny plastic chairs and bits of BBQ chicken, pickled salad stuff and Saigon beer. Not bad at all.

On quieter streets we head back out on the scooter and this time I relax more, not holding with tight white knuckles to the back rail and realise how cool their system is here. In a way its like a constant show of mutual respect. You just go…you walk, drive, ride, push your cart or walk your dog at a steady pace the direction you want to go. Traffic lights are essentially meaningless as are lanes and direction….you just look ahead of you and don’t hit stuff and everyone does the same. It shouldn’t work, but It does.

I go to bed though feeling more tired than I can ever remember being.

My phone beeps and I have a text from another friend we met last time we were in town. It is 2.30am, I have barely slept, but because they have to work I agree to meet them at 10am and with a heavy heart set an alarm for 9am. Punishing.


Flying over Vietnam.
Si takes an uncomfortable nap on the flight.

High Noon Tour - Day 4

Day 4 – 13th November

Disaster.
Well, for me anyway. I discover I have had money stolen from my room. Not all of it, just enough that I wouldn’t notice so it could have happened anytime since we have been here. I know I should use the safe, but there isn’t one in this place so it was a matter of hiding it away and hoping for the best. This is the first bad experience we have had here, but one positive comes of it. The couple of Vietnamese friends I told about it were very concerned and pleaded that we don’t judge the Vietnamese people by the actions of one. Maybe I’m an old softie, but to me it was incredibly endearing. Sorry if I seem patronising, I don’t mean to be.
With some quick phone calls to Mark, our man in the town we discover nothing can be done so pack the cases and get going to the airport. A 24 hour visit to Hanoi awaits.
This time at the airport the security staff don’t like the look of so many guitar leads in our hand luggage and Jon and I are sent back down to check them in. Time is running short and we feel exasperated waiting in line to go through the scanners for a 3rd time as some English businessman holds us up. He hasn’t taken his computer out of his bag like the sign says, so he goes through again. He hasn’t removed his belt like the sign says, so he goes through again, he hasn’t got rid of his liquids like everyone knows you have to so goes through again. With minutes to spare we manage to get through and in true British fashion glance with mild contempt at the fat businessman rather than actually saying anything.

Arriving in Hanoi and driving to the venue with Phu, our local tour manager you can’t help but notice how different the feel is here from Saigon. Plus it’s a perfect 21 degrees rather than an energy sapping 33. The buildings are different, the people are different, but my literary skills are too under developed for me to be able to accurately describe the difference, so I’ll just stick with; it is somehow a bit less colourful, but just as cool.

The venue is Hanoi Rock City and it is the closest thing we have found here to what we’d consider a regular gig venue. The focus is all on the music and the place is simple, painted black and has that dirty rock n roll feel that the Astoria in London used to have.

The show is probably the best one we have ever played. The set list feels right, the crowd respond like we’d choreographed the response ourselves and we play with more energy and passion than I have ever known us to.

After the show we went with Phu, D.A and the other Hanoi Rock City team guys to eat some bbq chicken, classic Vietnamese style on these tiny plastic chairs in the street. As the guy in charge of keeping track of the flights I was all too conscious of the fact we were getting really drunk, it was 3am and we had a flight in the morning for which we’d need to leave the hotel at 7am. The good time vibe got the better of us and after shutting our eyes for two minuts the alarm went off to signal the beginning of day 5.

Live at Hanoi Rock City
Enjoying some Vietnamese food post show

The High Noon Tour - Day 3

Day 3 – 12th November

We had been put in touch with a local woman, Tanya by our manager. She lives in Saigon, but is half Australian. This morning she took us out for some street food. Vietnam don’t do breakfast really, just the same food they’d eat for lunch or dinner. So we sat down in the morning on tiny seats with our knees touching our chins digging into cold noodles covered in chilli fish sauce. Its pretty damn good, but James says he is already missing his beloved Coco Pops. Rock n roll.

With half a day to kill Tanya suggested we visit the War Remnants Museum, so a short taxi ride later we are greeted by the site of old decommissioned helicopters, tanks and fucking great big bombs in the courtyard of the museum itself.  Like most people I find war rather a downer. Actually, that’s a bit too flippant, I actually find it moving depressing and incredibly tragic. 90% of my knowledge of the Vietnam war is from bad muscle clad, high 5-ing Hollywood films so needless to say everything here is quite confusing as I don’t know the context. I don’t even know who the good guys or the bad guys were as with so much propaganda by both East and West and only Charlie Sheen’s Platoon film performance to go on I resign myself to just trying to make sense of it all from the short descriptions on the photos, posters and displays. By the end of the tour I think its just like most wars, i.e essentially pointless with everyone being the bad guy. The one thing I wasn’t aware of was how much Vietnamese on Vietnamese violence there was. The mock up prison cells and Tiger Cages were truly shocking. Even worse was the gallery and stories about people living with Agent Orange deformities and illnesses. The effects are still present in modern day Vietnam and it is truly heart breaking to see. There is a quote from an American veteran on one of the displays showing G.I’s torturing civilians; sadly I didn’t take a picture as so many people were crowding around so I can’t repeat it perfectly. Essentially it said: “It is amazing what you can be made to do, but you have a choice. Do what you can to try and get yourself alive through the hell and just survive…or turn into a psychotic fucker who gets through by enjoying causing suffering.”
Ok, enough of the depressing stuff.

Feeling thoroughly humbled and still exhausted from the lack of sleep and the draining heat we head back to the same venue as the night before for sound check.  We are brought a menu to get a bite to eat before playing and Si and Lamont order just about everything, I really have never seen anyone eat so much in my life. Impressive if a little gross. 4 whole chickens later James and I spring onto stage with Jon and Si rolling up behind us and we play a slightly different set list to the night before but the response is just as good. One guy came up after the show and told us it was his first ever gig. Seeing that innocent love of music and unjaded attitude is just incredible….couple that with him taking us through his favourite moments of the gig by re-enacting them air guitar style and we have another great memory from the tour already.

At the War Museum

With Tanya outside The Hard Rock Cafe

With some fans after the show

Monday, 14 November 2011

The High Noon Tour - Day 2

Day 2 – 11th Nov

Still flying.
Complications with our transfer mean we’re negotiating airport hassles with half awake minds. Eventually we land in Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) and meet our local tour manager, Mark.
Mark is a New Zealander who has been here 21 years. In fact today is his 21st anniversary of arriving in Vietnam. He speaks like a local and picks us up in a taxi.  18 hours of travel and no sleep yet we’re on a time limit so go straight to the venue for sound check. Thankfully it’s the smoothest and quickest one we have ever had in Asia and before we know it we’re back at the hotel showering (finally) yet still with no time to rest.
Oh I forgot to mention it is fucking pouring with rain here. Real rainy season like you see on Michael Palin documentaries type rain. Of course we’re totally unprepared and head out for dinner in our stage clothes and get soaked to the bone.  I can barely keep my eyes open and they hurt they are so dry. Ironically the place that should be moist being by far the most desert like part of me.

The place we choose to eat at is an old favourite from last time we were here and it appeared as if out of nowhere as we stumbled blindly through dark, flooding streets wondering where the hell we were going. A shining neon sign, the same waitresses, the same menu. We felt as grateful as Mary must have done when she got that nice little manger.

The venue tonight is The Hard Rock Café and it’s a Rock Fanclub gig. A huge club for rock fans (obviously) in Saigon. When we went onto the stage people went crazy and that was just as tuning our guitars…when we actually played it kicked off and thank fuck it did. Its amazing how much a crowd’s energy can pull you through and I think we played one of our most crazy, physical shows in ages. I think we did 17 songs in all, maybe an hour and 20 minutes and just about died afterwards. We stuck around for a few beers with some locals we met but had to call it a night before we dropped where we stood. Even the classiness of a Vodka Red Bull didn’t pull us through.

The stage at The Hard Rock Cafe - Saigon
Jon speaking to the audience - Hard Rock Cafe - Saigon

High Noon Tour - Day 1.

Day 1 – 10th Nov 2011

So here we are again, waiting at Heathrow for our flight to Singapore, off on another Lost Souls adventure. This time we’re going to be playing Vietnam, Singapore and then pretty much the whole of Australia.
Its early, we were up all night packing and it’s a weary, bleary-eyed crew crossing their fingers at the check in desk, hoping our luggage isn’t over the weight limit. We’re away for 2 months but with so much gear to take the only room we have for clothes is stuffed into guitar cases or in our hand luggage. The complete works of Shakespeare or Dan Brown just don’t get a look in so its going to be mind rotting in flight movie after in flight movie to pass the 13 hours to our first stop.

I try and sleep but the guy behind us is talking and talking. It seems about EVERYTHING. His friend just stays mute allowing this one guy to tell him about ever place he has been in the world, about the merging of airline companies and all the best beers he has had in the best bars.  At first it was ok, but I decide to watch a film an 2 hours later he is still going on, and loudly about how awesome Iberia air are. I’m sure you’re all excited to know what film I saw and what I though. Well, it was The Help. I think its pretty new, but maybe some of you have seen it. I liked it a lot and thought it was quite moving with a slight eye moistening on my part, but of course if the other guys had asked I’d just have said it was tiredness.  The southern states of America in the early to mid 20th century essentially sucked for black people as well all know and this film covers that ground, but the way one of the main characters gets back at her evil bitch of a boss is pretty cool (a chocolate shit pie served with a smile) and the acting and characters had me enthralled. To my left Jon (lamont) is watching a Queen documentary that he must have seen a hundred times already, but that boy LOVES Queen, and Si is getting into a mental sweat with Captain America. James, the fucker, is asleep. I’m jealous and close my eyes as we have a show to play at the end of the next flight and some sleep would probably be good, but all I can hear is this constant excited monologue about Unilever being a really cool company if you look past their business practises.  Really though, I don’t care, I mean here we are, me and 3 great friends heading off to do what we do best in one of the coolest cities you could ever visit. Ho Chi Minh.